Food for the Spirit and the Soul

Time to Stop Horsing Around: Two Wine Recommendations for Christmas Presents

Cinematic propaganda to the contrary, as every astute person knows, the best Christmas gift anyone can receive is not a BB gun, but a pony. If Santa Claus accidentally forgets to bring me a horse this year (as he has for the past thirty years or so), then I hope that he will bring me some good wine, and two bottles from Joseph Phelps Vineyards are right at the top of my Christmas gift wish list.

Most wine lovers know that the 2007 vintage in California was remarkable and that it produced some of the greatest wines in the state’s history. However, it is not as widely appreciated that the 2008 vintage was nearly as good, and as evidence in support of this contention, I offer Joseph Phelps Vineyards 2008 Napa Valley Insignia ($200), the most incredible wine that I have tasted in the past year. Blended from estated-grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Merlot, 2008 Insignia has seductive dark berry, mocha, and mint aromas that lead to richly complex and beautifully orchestrated flavors that include blueberry, cassis, plum, and sweet oak, with hints of coffee, mineral, and cedar lingering in the background, all of which close in a long, resonant, polished finish.

For many years, I have had the same white wine with my Thanksgiving repast, and this year was no exception, because Joseph Phelps Vineyards 2010 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($32), like its predecessors, is one of the most versatile and delectable dinner wines available. This wine’s attractive lemon and tropical fruit aromas precede ripe melon, citrus, and guava flavors that are accompanied by a creamy texture and which find closure in a crisp finish. Joseph Phelps Vineyards 2010 Sauvignon Blanc would perfectly complement most dinners featuring poultry or fish, and it would go equally will with oysters.

If there are people on your holiday gift list who love good wine, I strongly recommend giving them one or both of the Joseph Phelps wines described above. I know that I would certainly be delighted to find them under my Christmas tree, though I would also really (really) like to get a pony this year. Looking over my behavioral ledger for the past twelve months, I find that I have been almost perfectly nice, and I assure everyone that to construe any of my behavior as naughty would be a grievous error most likely caused by either misunderstanding or mistaken identity. It’s enough that I have to contend with an obvious ideological bias on the part of elves, many of whom are clearly afflicted with an anti-equine fanaticism that has influenced Santa to bring me socks and shirts every Christmas instead of a pony. In any event, I remain hopeful that this will be my year, and I wish everyone a Merry Christmas.

Another Homage to Catalonia: Two Wine Suggestions for Thanksgiving

Few places on the planet can claim a richer or more vibrant culture than Catalonia, a region of four provinces that constitutes one of the seventeen autonomous communities of Spain. Everything about the place seems dramatic – the architecture, the literature, the music, the food, and, of course, the wine. Some of the world’s boldest, most full-flavored wines are made in Catalonia, but today I am going to recommend two that have been crafted in a more lyrical style, because I think that they would nicely complement Thanksgiving banquets for two reasons. First, wine lovers are always looking for something different, and while Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc pair nicely with turkey, so would these two wines. Second, some people at your table might be newcomers to wine, and both these bottlings are as accessible as they are satisfying, and would thus please both seasoned wine drinkers and neophytes alike.

The Torres family has been cultivating their own vineyards in Catalonia for 300 years, and recently they have made a commitment to helping alleviate the causes of global climate change by adapting eco-efficient strategies from cultivating their vineyards to transporting their wines to market. This development is not surprising, given the fact that the family’s motto has long been “The better we look after the land, the better the wine we produce.” Few people will argue with this claim if they sample either or both of the Torres wines I am about to describe.

Made from Moscatel de Alejandria and Gewurztraminer, Torres Vina Esmeralda 2010 ($15) is a charming white wine, with enticing floral aromas that lead to delectable, spice-tinged tropical fruit, lemon, and passion fruit flavors that would perfectly complement turkey, fish, or chicken. Esmeralda takes its name from the emerald color of the Mediterranean sea, and there is plenty of Mediterranean sunshine in this uncommonly appealing wine.

Rose’ can be a splendid dinner wine, and Torres Sangre de Toro Rose’ 2010 ($10) is substantial enough to complement almost any dish at your Thanksgiving repast. Its floral, blackberry, and tropical fruit aromas lead to exuberant raspberry, cherry, and spice flavors that close in a long, nicely balanced finish. While it is a good match for turkey, this Rose’ would also pair well with most appetizers, and it would be notably satisfying when sipped on its own before dinner.

I hope that everyone has a splendid Thanksgiving in the company of family and friends. I also hope that some of my readers follow my suggestion and pour either or both of these Torres wines with their Thanksgiving meal, since I promise that doing so would make an already wonderful occasion even more delightful.

Talking Turkey: Two Wines for Thanksgiving from Joseph Phelps Vineyards

Many people prefer a red wine with their holiday turkey, and happily for them there are any number of good wines that would nicely complement a Thanksgiving banquet. One of my recommendations this year is Joseph Phelps Vineyards 2008 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($56). When I first tasted this richly complex wine several months ago, I paired it with turkey, and so readers can trust me when I state that it complemented the meal splendidly, though it would also go well with roast beef, pork tenderloin, or duck. Made from 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and aged in oak for 18 months, this Cabernet Sauvignon has seductive plum, dark berry, and spice aromas that lead to generous, perfectly balanced blackberry, plum, oak, and cocoa flavors that are joined by notes of vanilla and spice on its long, polished finish.

Nothing brings a good meal to better closure than a glass of dessert wine, and one of the best is Joseph Phelps Vineyards 2010 Eiserebe ($50 – 375ml). Made from 100% Scheurebe grown on the winery’s home ranch outside St. Helena, this exquisitely delicious amber wine has enticing aromas of apricot, fig, and pineapple that precede luscious mango, apple, stone fruit, and caramel flavors that close in a long, honeyed finish.

Since Thanksgiving is traditionally spent in the company of family and friends, I know that everyone wishes to make the occasion as wonderful as possible, and I promise if either or both of the Joseph Phelps Vineyards wines that I have described in this posting are served at your holiday table, you and your guests will have even more than usual to be thankful for.

Because sometimes we should all remember that other America – the one that could have been

August 1, 1794 – The Whiskey Rebellion begins in western Pennsylvania.

“After the Industrial Revolution, All Things Happen at Once,” by Robert Bly

Now we enter a strange world, where the Hessian
Christmas
Still goes on, and Washington has not reached the other
shore;
The Whiskey Boys
Are gathering again on the meadows of Pennsylvania
And the Republic is still sailing on the open sea.

I saw a black angel in Washington dancing
On a barge, saying, Let us now divide kennel dogs
And hunting dogs; Henry Cabot Lodge, in New York,
Talking of sugar cane in Cuba; Ford,
In Detroit, drinking mother’s milk;
Henry Cabot Lodge, saying, “Remember the Maine!”
Ford, saying, “History is bunk!”
And Wilson saying, “What is good for General Motors . . .”

Who is it, singing? Don’t you hear singing?
It is the dead of Cripple Creek;
Coxey’s army
Like turkeys are singing from the tops of trees!
And the Whiskey Boys are drunk outside Philadelphia.”

Wine Recommendation – True Blue: Virage 2010 Napa Valley Rose’

Two of the things that I most enjoy when hiking in the Colorado mountains are the depthless blue sky over my head and the array of wildflowers at my feet, and during a recent visit to Boulder, I had an experience that combined both these pleasures – and then amplified them considerably. I was walking near Wonderland Lake when I noticed what I thought was a Larkspur. I have always loved this flower, in part because it has a second, equally beautiful name – “Delphinium,” from the Greek for “Dolphin.” It acquired this name because of the shape of its nectary, but I like to think that its etymology derives in part from the fact that in its blue inflection this blossom resembles the Aegean Sea, so beloved by the Greeks.

In any event, I was wrong, because the flower in fact proved to be Wild Blue Flax, and I was so taken with its singular charms that I went home and returned with a bottle of wine that I intended to sample and review that afternoon – Virage 2010 Napa Valley Rose’ ($24) – and photographed them together. This was a sound decision on my part, because this remarkably refreshing wine is as lovely as the garland of flowers that surrounds it. Made from a blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, it has delectable cherry and berry flavors complicated by hints of apple, spice, and hibiscus tea, with delicate notes of pomegranate lingering in the background. Unfortunately, like so many good things in this world, Virage 2010 Napa Valley Rose’ is available in a very limited quantity (alas, the winery produced just 54 cases), and so I suggest that readers acquire a bottle or two as soon as possible. And if they do, I promise that they will find themselves enjoying a wine with an uncommon power to enliven the spirit – like the sea does, for instance, or the sky, or . . .

A Bend in the Road: Wine Recommendation – Virage Napa Valley 2007

The French word “virage,” has two general meanings, and both have a bearing on Virage Napa Valley, one of the most interesting new wineries in California. The first meaning is a “change in orientation,” and that is exactly what proprietor Emily Richer and her advisor Aaron Potts initiated when they decided to make a blended red wine using Cabernet Franc as the principal grape, as is frequently the custom in wineries north of the Gironde River in Bordeaux, rather than Cabernet Sauvignon. To realize their goal, they employed winemaker Matthew Taylor, an expert in Right Bank-style Bordeaux wines, and this happy collaboration resulted in the decidedly elegant Virage Napa Valley 2007 ($45), which is certain to delight everyone who values wines that exhibit both depth and finesse.

The seductive dark fruit, spice, mint, and mocha aromas of Virage Napa Valley 2007 lead to beautifully orchestrated complexities of flavor, which include plum, black cherry, blackberry, and vanilla-oak. The wine has a notably rich texture, and notes of cocoa and spice emerge on its lingering finish. In short, this is an impeccably crafted, deeply flavorful wine that would be a splendid dinner companion for a wide variety of savory fare.

The second meaning of “virage” is “a bend in the road,” and I like this sense of the word as much as the first in relation to Virage Napa Valley. After all, a bend in the road often conceals what is ahead, and so it quite naturally implies the experience of something unexpected. I suggest that people who are accustomed to associating the stellar wines of Napa Valley almost exclusively with Cabernet Sauvignon and not Cabernet Franc, which Emily Richer poetically calls “the elusive ancient grape,” are in for a truly delightful surprise. In fact, after a few sips of the altogether wonderful Virage Napa Valley 2007, their understanding of what constitutes a great Napa Valley red wine just might undergo a change in orientation.

Persephone Rising: Korbel Champagnes as a Rite of Spring

The Greeks had a lovely myth about the arrival of spring: Persephone, daughter of the harvest goddess Demeter, was forced to spend half the year in the dark underworld, and during her sojourn there with Hades, human beings endured an increasingly bleak autumn and a testing winter. However, with the advent of spring, Persephone left her gloomy prison, trekked upward, and when she reached the surface, the earth blossomed. I often think about this story when I sip sparkling wines, which have an impressive power to lift the human spirit, and so I think it decidedly appropriate for me to describe three of my favorite Korbel Champagnes by relating them to the annual ascent of Persephone.

During her long and tiring climb, Persephone would doubtless require some liquid refreshment, and Korbel California Champagne Non-Vintage Chardonnay ($12) would be a good choice, because it has an extraordinary capacity to delight the palate. While the first sip of this Champagne is enchanting, after a moment’s reflection – and a second sip – the wine’s surprisingly generous character reveals itself. Its soft, altogether delectable apple and pear flavors express themselves immediately, and they are soon joined by appealing nuances of butter and vanilla-oak. These luscious complexities help to make this Korbel Champagne a splendid dinner wine that would perfectly complement most seafood and poultry dishes.

When Persephone at last leaves the cavernous darkness and walks upon the carpet of flowers that have bloomed to honor her, I am confident that she would immediately request a glass of Korbel California Champagne Non-Vintage Brut Rose ($12), since this wine seems to capture the very essence of springtime. Its strawberry and cherry flavors are as bright as they are delicious, and the wine’s crisp finish adds additional zest to its already vivacious personality. Although this Champagne is ideal for sipping, it has more than enough substance to accompany casual fare, particularly the sort that is typically brought on picnics.

After spending so much time in gloomy surroundings, Persephone would doubtless want to celebrate her return to the world of light by donning an attractive, floral-print party dress, heading for a good restaurant, and drinking some excellent wine, and I suggest that the perfect choice would be Korbel California Champagne 2006 Natural ($15). This complex wine deserves careful study, but its admittedly aristocratic nature certainly does not preclude its being paired with good food or sipped lovingly on its own, especially since it offers so much character at a very reasonable price, with ample, well-focused cherry, berry, tart apple, and citrus flavors and a long, uncommonly flavorful finish.

The tale of Persephone Rising might be just a beautiful myth, but we all have occasions in our lives when our spirits could use some lifting, and I suggest that sipping any of the Korbel Champagnes I have described would prove a sovereign remedy for whatever dark mood might hold one in thrall. I also submit that the feeling of having ones spirits restored is quite springlike in character, and that consequently the experience of springtime is in some sense always and everywhere potentially available to us. And for that bountiful gift, I think it appropriate to thank both Persephone and the winemaking team at Korbel Champagne Cellars.

With Jack London in Mendoza: A Wine Recommendation – Antigal Uno Malbec 2008

I think that Jack London would have loved Mendoza, the province in Argentina that produces the country’s best wines. Look at the photograph on the left, which shows a typical vineyard in the region, and then consider these words London wrote about a similar    landscape: “I ride over my beautiful ranch. Between my legs is a beautiful horse. The air is wine. The grapes on a score of    rolling hills are red with autumn flame. Across     Sonoma Mountain, wisps of sea fog are stealing. The afternoon sun          smolders in the drowsy      sky. I have everything to make me glad I am alive . . .” Given this glorious prose, it is not difficult to imagine London falling in love with the crimson vineyards of Mendoza, with the snow-capped Andes in the background.

Anyone who shares London’s passions for wine and horses, as I do, can readily imagine the depth of his delight at such a moment, and while our busy lives might not permit us to travel to Mendoza, where it is now autumn and snow has already begun falling in the distant mountains, it is possible to savor the wines from this region, and one of the best that I have tasted recently is Antiqal Uno Malbec 2008 ($20). Winemaker Miriam Andrea Gomez has crafted a smooth, beautifully balanced wine, with seductive fruit aromas that lead to delectable plum, blackberry, and currant flavors complicated by hints of mocha and toast, with hints of vanilla and spice emerging on its long, polished finish. This splendid Malbec would amplify the pleasures of most meals, but particularly those that feature grilled meats or pastas topped with savory tomato-based sauces and flavorful cheeses.

While there is considerable springtime charm and ample summer sunshine evident in the generous character of Antigal Uno Malbec 2008, I find that while sipping it I seem to detect something more, something ripe and autumnal deep below its surface, and then I imagine myself on horseback in Mendoza, where the vineyards will soon be a glorious red, including Las Lomas Vineyard, which provided some of the grapes for this splendid wine, waiting for the wind to carry the first scent of snow down from the mountains. But though I am now far from such a wonderful place, I thank Jack London for reminding me that, whenever we have wine this good and this inspiring in our glass, at that moment we have everything to make us glad we are alive.

The Best of the West: Purple Cowboy 2009 Tenacious Red Wine

Now listen up, partners, because I have found a wine that delivers incredible value for the money, a wine so good, that coyotes out on the lone prairie are probably howling about it right now: Purple Cowboy 2009 Tenacious Red ($12). Blended largely from Cabernet           Sauvignon, Syrah, and Merlot, this full-bodied wine has enticing fruit and spice aromas that lead to generous blackberry, raspberry, dark plum, cherry, and currant flavors with hints of mocha and cinnamon on its lingering finish. It’s plain delicious – and that’s a fact.

A wine this rich naturally requires suitably robust fare to accompany it, and Purple     Cowboy 2009 Tenacious Red is uncommonly versatile in this regard, because it would be a good match for any number of savory foods, including barbecue, burgers, and even pizza. However, I think that it would be hard to beat the meal suggested on the Purple Cowboy website: tri-tip of beef roast grilled chuck-wagon style over oak and served with baked beans, garlic bread, and a green salad. I might add some corn on the cob to this feast, but that’s a quibble. In truth, any cowboy worth the name is going to find a great number of dishes to pair with such a splendid wine. Of course, the same thing is equally true for all you cowgirls, as well.

Happy Trails!

Such stuff as dreams are made on: Two Wines from Joseph Phelps Vineyards

We all have had dreams that were so vivid and extraordinarily lovely that their memory haunted us long beyond awakening, filling our daytime hours with delight. If you can now recall one such reverie, then you will know what sort of experience you are likely to enjoy after drinking two remarkable wines from Joseph Phelps Vineyards.

“Luscious” is the perfect word to describe Joseph Phelps Vineyards 2009 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($32), and it is easily one of the best white wines that I have enjoyed in the past six months. Its appealing floral, spice, and ripe fruit aromas precede lively citrus, peach, and melon flavors, the pleasures of which are amplified by a creamy texture. From the first sip to its lingering finish, this wine is utterly delectable, and in my opinion it represents a perfectly crafted expression of the Sauvignon Blanc grape.

Joseph Phelps Vineyards 2007 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($54) manages to be at once elegant and powerful, with layered complexities of flavor that include dark berry, spice, plum, and cocoa. This impressive array of flavors is complemented by a rich texture, and the wine finds closure in an extended, oak-tinged finish. While this Cabernet Sauvignon will continue to evolve for at least a decade, it is tempting to enjoy it now in its exuberant youth, especially with meals that feature grilled meats.

Like some dreams, some wines are memorable, but in the case of these two uncommonly impressive efforts from Joseph Phelps Vineyards, I can claim something more and better: They are unforgettable.