Food for the Spirit and the Soul

A Personal Favorite: Dry Creek Vineyard 2006 Sonoma County Old Vine Zinfandel

Since I am an unabashed Zinfandel partisan, it takes an uncommonly good example of my favorite wine to impress me, and so I was delighted to discover the remarkable Dry Creek Vineyard 2006 Sonoma County Old Vine Zinfandel ($28). Sipping this brilliantly-crafted red wine is like listening to a Bach fugue, with all the terraced dynamics and architectonic perfection implied by the analogy. Rich dark fruit and oak aromas lead to a sheath of warm plum and vanilla notes that surround a core of concentrated cherry, black raspberry, and blackberry flavors complicated by nuances of earth, spice, briar, and smoke, all of which find resonant closure in a long, deeply flavorful finish. This superb wine would pair nicely with most meals featuring grilled meats, especially beef, but it would also perfectly complement less lofty fare, such as barbecue or deep-dish pizza.

Wine Recommendation: On The Verge of Greatness

Last year, Verge Wine Cellars made a decidedly dramatic entrance onto the stage of the wine world with the release of its Verge 2006 Dry Creek Valley Syrah ($40), and people who delighted in this wine’s robust complexities will likely find at least as much to enjoy in the newly-released Verge 2007 Dry Creek Valley Syrah ($40), though their enjoyment might take a somewhat different form. By way of musical analogy, Verge 2006 Syrah is like Beethoven’s Fifth Symphony: it announces itself dramatically, and then delivers on its bold promises; Verge 2007 Syrah is like a Mozart concerto: it reveals its major themes in a subtle introduction, and then proceeds to elaborate them stylishly. Verge 2006 Syrah shouts its glories; Verge 2007 Syrah never raises its voice, but it nonetheless communicates as well – and as much – as its predecessor.

The restrained eloquence of Verge 2007 Syrah is largely attributable to its having been produced from the fruit of several      vineyards, a fact which     afforded winemaker Mike    Brunson considerable     latitude in blending the    different lots of wine into the sort of Syrah he    envisioned. The result is a wine that opens softly    with rich dark berry and spice flavors that are soon complicated by notes of vanilla-oak, black cherry, plum, and earth. These flavors are supported by ample tannins and find closure in a long, polished finish. While this Syrah will certainly evolve in the bottle for many years, it is irresistible now, especially as a companion to hearty fare, such as grilled meat, savory stew, or barbecue.

I offer a second musical analogy to help my fellow Woodstockers better appreciate the different but equally attractive characters of the two Verge Syrahs: Verge 2006 Syrah is Janis Joplin; Verge 2007 Syrah is Gracie Slick.

When asked to recommend a white wine to        accompany rich fare, I     always suggest that, with its generally fruit-forward character, a good         Chardonnay tends to      amplify the flavors of the repast, while an excellemt Sauvignon Blanc will      generally contribute its      own delicate fruit and     herbal tones to the meal and then, with its         traditionally crisp finish, clear the palate for the next bite of food. Verge Wine Cellars 2008 Dry Creek Valley Viognier ($24) manages to accomplish both these feats, since it is filled with abundant, beautifully orchestrated peach, apricot, citrus, and tropical fruit flavors accompanied by hints of almond and fig that emerge on its long and delectably crisp finish. The whisper of fig in the wine’s flavor profile might be attributable to the fact that, rather than being given any time in oak, the wine was blended with 12% Semillon for depth. While this complex Viognier can certainly complement a wide variety of good food, including salmon, trout, seafood, and most poultry dishes, it is also charming enough to accompany picnic fare – or to be sipped lovingly on those occasions when the temperature does not go down with the sun.

By any reasonable measure, Verge Wine Cellars 2007 Dry Creek Valley Syrah and Verge Wine Cellars 2008 Dry Creek Valley Viognier have been crafted deftly enough to be considered among the finest wines of California. In fact, after tasting these two new releases from Verge, many wine lovers are likely to conclude that rather than being on the verge of greatness, the winery has crossed the threshold and entered its precincts.

Wine Recommendation

Pascual Toso
2007 Malbec
Maipu Vineyards, Mendoza
Argentina
Price: about $12

This Malbec is certainly one of the “best buy” red wines that I have tasted recently. It has appealing cherry and dark berry aromas with hints of cocoa lingering in the background, dark raspberry, currant, and vanilla-oak flavors, a soft texture, and a polished, lingering finish. Pascual Toso 2007 Malbec would make an ideal companion for grilled meats, savory stews, and hearty pastas, though its reasonable price definitely allows it to be served with less exalted fare, including burgers and pizza.

Wine Recommendation

Two Rivers Winery
Chateau Deux Fleuves Vineyards
Mesa County
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Price: about $16

This impressive Colorado Cabernet         Sauvignon has generous dark berry, cherry, and spice flavors, a notably soft texture, and a polished, lingering finish. It would go especially well with grilled meats or savory pasta dishes. If the wine is not available locally, you can order it from the winery at www.tworiverswinery.com/, provided you are a resident in one of the eighteen enlightened states that allows wines to be shipped to your door.

Wine Review

Joseph Phelps Vineyards
St. Helena, Napa Valley
2007 Sauvignon Blanc
Price: about $32

This lovely Sauvignon Blanc has enticing floral and fruit aromas that lead to appealing lime, melon, and citrus flavors complicated by hints of vanilla and spice. a rich texture, and a lingering, creamy finish. While this luscious wine would certainly amplify the pleasures of any meal featuring salmon, it possesses more than enough of the inherently crisp, palate-cleansing character traditionally found in Sauvignon Blanc to go equally well with seasoned poultry dishes.


Joseph Phelps Vineyards
Napa Valley
2005 Insignia
Price: about $200

A masterful blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petite Verdot from estate-owned vineyards in five agricultural districts, Joseph Phelps Vineyards 2005 Insignia has immensely attractive aromas of cherry, spice, anise, and vanilla-oak that lead to layered complexities of flavor, including black cherry, plum, and currant that are accompanied by perfectly integrated notes of spice and oak. All of these well-balanced riches are supported by firm tannins and close in an extended finish. For a wine with such an impressive structure, Joseph Phelps 2005 Insignia is surprisingly accessible, though it would certainly benefit from a decade or more of cellaring.

Wine and Cheese

I know that writing about wine and cheese combinations is much-overdone, but I have discovered one such pairing that I think worth sharing, especially since people will be entertaining friends and family thoughout the holiday season and might want to serve them something that is both delectable and deeply satisfying. I recommend offering guests Cabot Extra Sharp Cheddar, since this impeccably crafted Vermont cheese has a creamy texture to balance its robust flavors. I suggest matching it with Zinfandel, not only because I am an unabashed Zinfandel partisan, but also because this rich red wine would perfectly complement the deliciously assertive character of the cheese. I recommend choosing a Zinfandel from Ravenswood Winery, which produces a remarkable number of wonderful Zinfandels. My own admittedly sentimental choice is Ravenswood Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel, currently available in the 2006 vintage, partly because Lodi puckishly bills itself as “the other appellation” in deference to Napa and Sonoma, and partly because this bottling, with its generous and eloquent dark berry, plum, and spice flavors, has long been one of my personal favorites. Offer your guests Cabot Extra Sharp Cheddar Cheese with a glass of Ravenswood 2006 Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel, accompanied by some walnuts and apple slices, and they will soon be wishing you a heartfelt Happy New Year.

Wine Recommendation

Bodegas Borsao
Campo de Borja, Spain
Borsao Crianza Seleccion 2006
Price: About $17

The wine revolution in Spain continues its quiet but steady progress, as evidenced in Borsao Crianza Seleccion 2006, which is made from Granache, Tempranillo, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The consequence of this non-traditional blend is a wine with seductive dark fruit aromas that lead to generous, well- balanced flavors of black cherry, currant, and plum complicated by notes of spice and vanilla-oak that are complemented by a firm texture and which lead to a lingering finish. This wine would go especially well with most Mediterranean cuisine, though it would also match up nicely with meals featuring beef or game.

Restaurant Recommendation

Bordinos
310 West Dickson Street
Fayetteville, Arkansas 72701
479-527-6795
Dinner Hours: Monday – Thursday, 5 p.m-10 p.m.; Friday – Saturday, 5 p.m. – 12 a.m.
Lunch Hours: Tuesday – Friday, 11 a.m. – 2 p.m.

It seems almost presumptuous to recommend a long-established landmark restaurant, but sometimes familiarity makes people forget good things when they are close by, and besides, visitors to northwest Arkansas should know that there is a world-class restaurant in the region.

Thanks to the creative artistry of Chef Chrissy, a graduate of The Culinary Instute of America in Hyde Park, New York, the cuisine at Bordinos has evolved beyond its original Northern Italian focus. The menu changes seasonally, and Chrissy offers patrons new specials on most evenings, but the regular selections always include Salads, Meat and Fish Dishes, and Pastas and Risottos. There are many wonderful dishes available, and they all deserve commentary, but if I were asked to pick a personal favorite, it would be the Fettuccini, Wild Boar Sausage, Cremini Mushroooms, and Roasted Bell Peppers, about which I sometimes dream.

The dessert menu includes creme brule, tiramisu, and what must be the finest bread pudding on the planet.

Vonnie, the wine and bar manager, working closely with Chef Chrissy, has created a constantly-updated wine list designed to provide ideal pairings for the restaurant’s cuisine. The proof of the success of their collaboration lies in the great number of loyal patrons who visit Bordinos frequently, as well as the accolades and awards the restaurant has received, including the much-coveted Wine Spectator Award of Excellence for 2006, 2007, and 2008. Patrons will also make the happy discovery that the courteous, helpful wait staff at Bordinos is thoroughly conversant with the food and wine purveyed in the restaurant.

Finally, in addition to its outstanding staff, wonderful food, great wine, and immensely attractive decor, on most evenings patrons will have the opportunity to meet the guiding genius of the restaurant, founder, co-owner, and host Joe Fennel, who traditionally greets customers with his justly famous query, “How is it?” This salutation reflects both Joe’s extensive background in philosophical studies and his mastery of the Socratic method, and so if someone wants to experience an evening that offers both the promise of magnificent dining and the possibility of metaphysical dialogue, there is no better choice than Bordinos.

Restaurant Recommendation

Petra Cafe
31 East Center Street
Fayetteville, Arkansas
479-443-3090
Hours: Monday – Saturday, 11 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.



Residents of northwest Arkansas who never have had the good fortune to travel in the Middle East can at least have a taste of the experience by visiting the Petra Cafe, located one block east of the Square in Fayetteville. The menu in this splendid little restaurant offers a variety of delectable, reasonably-priced fare, including baba ghanouge (baked eggplant with tahini, lemon juice, garlic, and spices), falafil (patties of ground garbanzo beans cooked with herbs and spices), and foule (fava beans cooked on a low fire with onions, tomatoes, herbs, and spices), as well as stuffed grape leaves, tabouleh, baklava, and Turkish coffee. Customers can also choose from an assortment of combination platters, sandwiches, and salads, and there is a lunch special and soup of the day Monday through Friday. Owner/host Saleh Faur makes everyone feel welcome in his restaurant, and his genial presence, the delightful food, and the pleasant atmosphere in the Petra Cafe together convey a sense of the warmth and hospitality that have traditionally been at the heart of Middle Eastern cultures.

Wine Review

Layer Cake Wines
Puglia – Italy
2006 Primitivo
Price: About $15




“Primitivo” is another name for Zinfandel, and this robust Italian wine, with its abundant dark fruit flavors complicated by nuances of spice and long, flavorful finish, will almost certainly please fans of California Zinfandels. I recommend serving Layer Cake 2006 Primitivo with hearty pastas and grilled meats, though it certainly has character enough to be paired with barbecue.