Food for the Spirit and the Soul

Springtime in a Bottle: Joseph Phelps Vineyards 2009 Eisrebe

We are now experiencing, as Dickens so aptly put it, “those March days when the sun shines hot and the wind blows cold.” In response to such seasonal uncertainties, I      suggest that there are two splendid wine-related strategies for keeping blustery March winds at bay. The first strategy is to savor a glass of Port while sitting on a soft chair in front of a fire with a good book in your hand – preferably a novel by Anthony Trollope (I recommend “Barchester Towers”). Port, with its warm, plummy character is the perfect means by which to escape the frigid thrall of late winter evenings, and anyone employing this strategy will doubtless find it easy to ignore the conditions outside his or her door, however testing they might be.

The second strategy is to defeat winter’s ministrations by savoring something that tastes very like spring itself, and no wine better serves this purpose than Joseph Phelps Vineyards 2009 Eisrebe ($50 – 375ml). Made in the style of a German Eiswein from the Scheurebe grape, this lovely wine has delectable floral and stone fruit aromas that lead to rich apricot, lemon, honeysuckle, and creamy vanilla flavors that are balanced by lively acidity and that linger throughout a long, luscious finish. It is hard to imagine anything that would bring a splendid meal to better closure than a small glass of Joseph Phelps Vineyards 2009 Eisrebe, and while it might seem paradoxical that a wine      associated with ice should be so utterly      reminiscent of spring, it is nonetheless true that sipping Eisrebe invariably makes me think of an English cottage garden in full bloom, and that is exactly the sort of thought which can banish the chill of even the most tempestuous March day.

Wine Recommendation: The Federalist 2008 Visionary Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

Alexander Hamilton is          justifiably celebrated as one of the Founding Fathers of our Republic, and his           contributions to “The        Federalist Papers” are        required reading for any student of American history. Just as importantly, he was an enthusiastic champion for the advancement of both agriculture and manufacturing in his new nation, and he had an abiding faith in the entrepreneurial spirit of his fellow Americans. Interestingly, the Zinfandel grape was already being cultivated in the American colonies during Hamilton’s lifetime, but it did not make its way to California until the 1860′s, and it was not until the middle of the twentieth century that the happy conjunction of a decidedly promising grape and a group of ingenious California winemakers gave birth to what is arguably the most quintessentially American wine: Zinfandel.

While Zinfandels are made in a variety of styles in California’s several wine regions, those coming from Dry Creek Valley have earned a reputation for being the standard against which others are measured. It is therefore appropriate that one winery from this appellation has decided to produce a wine that is a tribute to Alexander Hamilton: The Federalist 2008 Dry Creek Valley Visionary Zinfandel ($25). This decidedly elegant wine has lively dark fruit and spice aromas that lead to beautifully orchestrated raspberry, currant, and black cherry flavors complicated by hints of allspice and cocoa, with a deft touch of vanilla-oak emerging on its polished, lingering finish. It is hard to imagine a dinner wine that would better complement a wide range of fare, from the humble (burgers or barbecue) to the sophisticated (beef tenderloin or lamb), but in any event, the pleasures of any meal would be considerably amplified by a glass of this classic Zinfandel. In truth, Zinfandel is my favorite wine, and I assure readers that The Federalist 2008 is among the very best Zinfandels that I have tasted in the past year.

In a sense, The Federalist 2008 Visionary Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel fully rewards Alexander Hamilton’s faith in the American spirit, since its crafting combines both viticulture (agriculture) and viniculture (manufacturing). Were Hamilton alive today, I think that he would be pleased by the tribute; I’m certain that he would love the wine.

Wine Recommendation: A Golden Vintage: Joseph Phelps Vineyards 2007 Insignia

Most of us have childhood memories of “Rumpel-     stiltskin,” a fairy tale that concerns a stranger with a mysterious name and a woman who, with the help of magic, can spin straw into gold. We smile at such things as adults, of course, but Ashley Hepworth, the winemaker at Joseph       Phelps Vineyards, abetted by her colleagues Director of Winemaking Damian Parker and Director of Vineyard Operations Phillippe Pessereau, has done something just as remarkable: She has taken grapes and, almost magically, crafted the extraordinary Joseph Phelps Vineyards 2007 Insignia ($200), which is among the most remarkable red wines ever produced in the New World.

Blended from Cabernet Sauvignon (88%), Merlot (8%), and Petit Verdot (4%), Insignia 2007 offers rich and uncommonly enticing aromas of dark fruit, mocha, and spice, which lead to     generous, perfectly orchestrated plum,        currant, dark cherry, blackberry and allspice flavors complicated by notes of vanilla-oak on its long, polished finish. For a wine with such a powerful structure, Insignia 2007 has a surprisingly soft mouthfeel, and though it will certainly age beautifully for a decade or more, it is nonetheless irresistibly attractive in its youth.

If there is a wine lover on your holiday gift list, there is no need to give him or her a strange bottling with a mysterious name on its label, since I cannot imagine a wine that would be more delightful to receive than Joseph Phelps Vineyard 2007 Insignia. Opening such a wonderful present on Christmas morning would certainly be a golden moment for the recipient, and drinking it with family and friends as part of a yuletide feast later in the day would be decidedly magical for everyone at table.

The Trouble with Border Collies – A Wine Recommendation: Verge Wine Cellars 2009 Dry Creek Valley Rose’ of Syrah

I apologize at the outset of this posting for its misleading title. Anyone who has visited this website knows that it would be more accurate to call it “Troubles with a Particular Border Collie,” since Jack, the pompous, Anglophiliac canine who presumes to run my life, almost effortlessly manages to vex me on a daily basis in far more than a single way. In any event, I am going to publish my review of the splendid Verge Wine Cellars 2009 Rose’ of Syrah ($24) in the form of a dialogue between my humble self (henceforth “S”) and less-than-humble Jack (henceforth “J” – pictured below, at his insistence).

S: What I like best about this Rose’ is . . .
J: Excuse me. The provenance of the Syrah grape is fascinating, since most oenologists believe that its name is a variation of Shiraz, the Iranian city from which, at least indirectly, Crusaders might have brought it to Europe centuries ago.
S: What are you doing?
J: I’m establishing context; doing so will enable readers to more fully appreciate our comments on the wine that we are reviewing.
S: “We”? I don’t remember inviting you to help me with this posting.
J: Nor do you likely remember “inviting” me either to help you locate your keys this morning or to assist you in finding your way home from our afternoon walk.
S: All right. But you don’t have to dwell on the matter.
J: I never dwell, Sirrah – I elaborate intelligently.
S: “Sirrah”?
J: Yes; it’s an archaic form of respectful address. Given your advanced age, I thought that you’d appreciate it.
S: It is not respectful, and let’s have no more age-related remarks.
J: As you wish, Old Sport. But the sooner you come to terms with the fact that you are in your dotage, the better off we’ll both be. Now let’s discuss this excellent wine.
S: Fine. But we’ll talk about this dotage business later. And don’t call me “Old Sport.”
J: Sorry.

S: What I like best about this Rose’ is that it is filled with luscious berry flavors that close in a refreshingly crisp finish. Therefore, while it is great for casual sipping, the wine also has more than enough substance to accompany all sorts of foods, and I think that it would be an especially wonderful complement to picnic fare.
J: I fully agree. In fact, this wine reminds me of the splendid Roses that I used to enjoy during my time in the South of France.
S: What? When were you in the South of France?
J: You know, I did have a life before I made the perhaps regrettable decision to quit my travels and spend most of my time herding you.
S: You perhaps herd, but you rarely listen. Get it?
J: Pathetic. I also like the manner in which the presence of a dollop of Chardonnay in the wine at once complicates and amplifies its charm.
S: Yes – in much the same way that strawberries do when placed atop my favorite cake.
J: That makes no sense.
S: Of course it does.
J: I presume that you are talking about strawberry shortcake.
S: I am.
J: Then the strawberries in this instance do not, in fact, either complicate or amplify anything – they are essential to the meaning of “strawberry shortcake.”
S: Listen, you supercilious mutt – I’m the one with two degrees in English.
J: I don’t see what that has to do with the matter we are discussing, but I remind you that while you might have acquired a patina of culture through your English-related studies, I am, by virtue of being a Border Collie, actually British, and breeding always trumps mere scholarship, Old Sport.
S: I asked you not to call me . . .
J: I apologize. It won’t happen again. Now let’s give the readers the bad news about this wonderful Rose’.
S: There is, alas, very little of it available, and so anyone interested in acquiring a bottle should contact Verge Wine Cellars immediately.
J: In short, like all good things, this wine is rare – rather as collies are rare, in contrast to, say, English majors.
S: I’ll let you deliver the good news.
J: And it is very good news, indeed: The winery still has some of its superb 2007 Syrah available, and it is offering the wine at a special holiday price. In fact, a review of this Syrah can be found elsewhere on “Food for the Spirit and the Soul,” and I suggest that all readers interested in obtaining a first-rate dinner wine should immediately visit either the Verge website or their local wine shop. Finally, Verge 2007 Syrah would make an excellent Christmas present for someone special on your gift list.

S: I could not agree more.
J: I have just decided that Verge 2007 Syrah will accompany our annual Christmas day feast.
S: Which will be?
J: Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, of course. And please, no Zinfandel at table this year.
S: Why not?
J: Because what the enlightened people at Verge claim is true: Syrah is a thinking person’s wine.
S: And Zinfandel?
J: It’s fine – for peasants.
S: Peasants! Listen, you arrogant, classist. . .
J: Now, now, don’t lose your temper again. I didn’t mean to imply that just because you prefer a red wine that goes best with things like ox hoof soup or acorn-stuffed tortoise shell that it is an indictment of what passes for your character. If you keep letting your anger get the best of you, you are going to rupture some blood vessels in your brain, grow even more senile than you already are, and then soon you will become one of those demented individuals who wanders aimlessly among the aisles of grocery stores accosting strangers in order to show them pictures of his cats.
S: That’s terrible!
J: I agree, cats are terrible.
S: No, I mean . . . never mind.
J: Good. I see that it’s almost teatime. Why don’t you make us both a cup of Darjeeling, and then we can discuss the prospects for Manchester United? I think that the lads are going to be brilliant this year.
S: Fine. I’ll put the kettle on.
J: Splendid. And I wouldn’t mind it a bit if you were to bring me a small glass of Verge Syrah Rose’ to sip in the meantime.
S: Coming right up.
J: Thanks, Old Sport.

And there you have it, dear reader – a perfect example of my troubles with a particular Border Collie. I acknowledge that the shaggy brute is articulate, and also that, with the exception of his wholly erroneous assessment of Zinfandel, he knows something about wine, but he is nonetheless an insolent, provoking, altogether disrespectful cur – at least occasionally, and by “occasionally” I mean “most of the time.” I am especially offended by his baseless claim that I am senile, and I want to assure everyone that I am most definitely not the sort of person who would ever, under any circumstances, force strangers to look at a photograph of his cats, of which, by the way, I have two.

Of Turkey and Turkeys: Three Thanksgiving Wine Recommendations

I will be spending Thanksgiving in Boulder, Colorado this year, in the testing company of my three wayward sons. I know that sentimentalists will expect me to write something smarmy about holiday feasts enjoyed with family and friends, but I cannot ignore the fact that I have fathered three insolent brutes who treat me with programmatic disrespect. Further, without having had the courtesy to ask my permission in the matter, the miscreants have managed to be both younger and taller than I am. Intolerable. However, in the spirit of what I will cheerfully call “grim acceptance,” I will temporarily put aside my justifiable indignation over the painful vagaries of parenthood, and focus on describing three wines that will definitely find a place at our Thanksgiving table and, I suggest, are worthy of finding a place at yours. Appropriately, the context for these recommendations will be three things for which I am boundlessly thankful, all of them son-related.

I am thankful that I do not have red hair. My oldest son is afflicted with gingeritis, and though medical science has made great strides in eradicating less pernicious diseases, it has not yet discovered a cure for this truly awful malady that brings so much distress both to those afflicted with it and to anyone who has to deal with them. If you find yourself burdened with a ginger at your holiday meal, I suggest bringing a measure of sanity to the occasion by serving one of my favorite white wines: Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 Clarksburg Chenin Blanc ($12). This versatile wine is charming enough for casual sipping and substantial enough to complement a turkey-centered feast. It has enticing citrus aromas that lead to delectable lemon, grapefruit, and apple flavors that linger through a crisply flavorful finish.

I am thankful that my middle name is John, even though it is somewhat common, since I would rather not have to go through life saddled with a weird middle name, like, say, Tukten, that was bestowed upon me by my hippie parents because they found it in a book about Nepal during one of their “Woodstock moments.” That would be unendurable; just ask my middle son. In contrast, Dry Creek Vineyard Sonoma County 2009 Fume Blanc ($12) is decidedly “endurable” – to the point of being irresistibly delicious. Year after year this wine shows a consistency of character that is as impressive as it is commendable, and the 2009 bottling offers just what any wine lover would desire: harmonious citrus flavors complicated by nuances of gooseberry and mineral that lead to a long, palate-cleansing finish. If you find yourself unsure about what wine you should serve with your holiday turkey, you can choose this one with the assurance that neither you nor your dinner companions will be disappointed.

I am grateful that I was not born during the Year of the Rat, as was the fate of my misfortunate third son. The Chinese consider Rats to be bright, sweet-natured, and generous, but those admirable traits do not, alas, wholly define the character of this “complex” young man. In a failed attempt to comfort the lad for having been born under so verminous a sign, I once told him that there is a high school in Michigan that has selected the water rat as its school mascot. I wonder if the student body greets members of opposing athletic teams with the cheer, “Boo-Bonic!” I’d certainly be intimidated. But you should certainly not be intimidated by the task of having to select a wine to go with turkey, as long as your local wine shop stocks Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Valley 2009 Sauvignon Blanc ($16). It’s appealing, fruit-rich aromas lead to concentrated, beautifully balanced mango, pineapple, citrus and peach flavors that find closure in a vibrant finish complicated by a hint of honeysuckle.

In truth, my annual Thanksgiving trip to Boulder is a source of great joy for me, even if that joy sometimes chiefly consists of successfully defending myself from the verbal barbs of my contentious offspring, and I am confident that most parents who visit their grown children during the holidays will sympathize with me. In any event, I hope that all my readers have a wonderful Thanksgiving, and that they complement their holiday banquet with one or more of the wonderful wines that I have described in this posting. I close by admitting that I am very thankful to have three sons, pictured below when they were far easier to be with, though for perfectly understandable reasons, I am sorely tempted to modify that statement to “only” three sons.

Wine Recommendation: Dry Creek Vineyard 2006 The Mariner

Sailors have always been masterful storytellers, and perhaps the greatest of all sea tales begins with words familiar to every student of Western Civilization: “It is time that I told you of the disastrous voyage Zeus gave me.” While not many of us ever have to face physical trials as dire as those which so sorely tested great Odysseus, there are nonetheless occasions in our workaday lives when we suffer emotional shipwreck and find ourselves cast upon desolate shores, and at such times few things in this world have greater power to restore our wearied spirits than enjoying good wine in the the company of friends and family.

Sea dogs and landlubbers alike will find much to praise and just as much to savor in the remarkable Dry Creek Vineyard 2006 The Mariner ($40), a Bordeaux-style red wine blended from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. Equal parts power and elegance, its perfectly balanced flavors include ripe plum, dark berry, and cherry, with notes of mocha, spice, and vanilla emerging on its long, polished finish. While altogether delicious now at the height of its youthful vigor, it would be wise to stow away a bottle or two of this wine below deck, because it will age beautifully for at least a decade.

The best wines, like the greatest tales, are always worth sharing, and I can offer everyone, seafarer or not, the same assurance: However disaster-filled or tempest-tossed your daily odyssey might have been, if you open a bottle of Dry Creek Vineyard 2006 The Mariner and serve it with your evening repast, the rest of the day for you and your shipmates will be nothing but calm seas and smooth sailing.

A Personal Favorite: Dry Creek Vineyard 2006 Sonoma County Old Vine Zinfandel

Since I am an unabashed Zinfandel partisan, it takes an uncommonly good example of my favorite wine to impress me, and so I was delighted to discover the remarkable Dry Creek Vineyard 2006 Sonoma County Old Vine Zinfandel ($28). Sipping this brilliantly-crafted red wine is like listening to a Bach fugue, with all the terraced dynamics and architectonic perfection implied by the analogy. Rich dark fruit and oak aromas lead to a sheath of warm plum and vanilla notes that surround a core of concentrated cherry, black raspberry, and blackberry flavors complicated by nuances of earth, spice, briar, and smoke, all of which find resonant closure in a long, deeply flavorful finish. This superb wine would pair nicely with most meals featuring grilled meats, especially beef, but it would also perfectly complement less lofty fare, such as barbecue or deep-dish pizza.

Wine Recommendation: On The Verge of Greatness

Last year, Verge Wine Cellars made a decidedly dramatic entrance onto the stage of the wine world with the release of its Verge 2006 Dry Creek Valley Syrah ($40), and people who delighted in this wine’s robust complexities will likely find at least as much to enjoy in the newly-released Verge 2007 Dry Creek Valley Syrah ($40), though their enjoyment might take a somewhat different form. By way of musical analogy, Verge 2006 Syrah is like Beethoven’s Fifth Symphony: it announces itself dramatically, and then delivers on its bold promises; Verge 2007 Syrah is like a Mozart concerto: it reveals its major themes in a subtle introduction, and then proceeds to elaborate them stylishly. Verge 2006 Syrah shouts its glories; Verge 2007 Syrah never raises its voice, but it nonetheless communicates as well – and as much – as its predecessor.

The restrained eloquence of Verge 2007 Syrah is largely attributable to its having been produced from the fruit of several      vineyards, a fact which     afforded winemaker Mike    Brunson considerable     latitude in blending the    different lots of wine into the sort of Syrah he    envisioned. The result is a wine that opens softly    with rich dark berry and spice flavors that are soon complicated by notes of vanilla-oak, black cherry, plum, and earth. These flavors are supported by ample tannins and find closure in a long, polished finish. While this Syrah will certainly evolve in the bottle for many years, it is irresistible now, especially as a companion to hearty fare, such as grilled meat, savory stew, or barbecue.

I offer a second musical analogy to help my fellow Woodstockers better appreciate the different but equally attractive characters of the two Verge Syrahs: Verge 2006 Syrah is Janis Joplin; Verge 2007 Syrah is Gracie Slick.

When asked to recommend a white wine to        accompany rich fare, I     always suggest that, with its generally fruit-forward character, a good         Chardonnay tends to      amplify the flavors of the repast, while an excellemt Sauvignon Blanc will      generally contribute its      own delicate fruit and     herbal tones to the meal and then, with its         traditionally crisp finish, clear the palate for the next bite of food. Verge Wine Cellars 2008 Dry Creek Valley Viognier ($24) manages to accomplish both these feats, since it is filled with abundant, beautifully orchestrated peach, apricot, citrus, and tropical fruit flavors accompanied by hints of almond and fig that emerge on its long and delectably crisp finish. The whisper of fig in the wine’s flavor profile might be attributable to the fact that, rather than being given any time in oak, the wine was blended with 12% Semillon for depth. While this complex Viognier can certainly complement a wide variety of good food, including salmon, trout, seafood, and most poultry dishes, it is also charming enough to accompany picnic fare – or to be sipped lovingly on those occasions when the temperature does not go down with the sun.

By any reasonable measure, Verge Wine Cellars 2007 Dry Creek Valley Syrah and Verge Wine Cellars 2008 Dry Creek Valley Viognier have been crafted deftly enough to be considered among the finest wines of California. In fact, after tasting these two new releases from Verge, many wine lovers are likely to conclude that rather than being on the verge of greatness, the winery has crossed the threshold and entered its precincts.

Wine Recommendation

Pascual Toso
2007 Malbec
Maipu Vineyards, Mendoza
Argentina
Price: about $12

This Malbec is certainly one of the “best buy” red wines that I have tasted recently. It has appealing cherry and dark berry aromas with hints of cocoa lingering in the background, dark raspberry, currant, and vanilla-oak flavors, a soft texture, and a polished, lingering finish. Pascual Toso 2007 Malbec would make an ideal companion for grilled meats, savory stews, and hearty pastas, though its reasonable price definitely allows it to be served with less exalted fare, including burgers and pizza.

Wine Recommendation

Two Rivers Winery
Chateau Deux Fleuves Vineyards
Mesa County
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
Price: about $16

This impressive Colorado Cabernet         Sauvignon has generous dark berry, cherry, and spice flavors, a notably soft texture, and a polished, lingering finish. It would go especially well with grilled meats or savory pasta dishes. If the wine is not available locally, you can order it from the winery at www.tworiverswinery.com/, provided you are a resident in one of the eighteen enlightened states that allows wines to be shipped to your door.